2 MINUTES READING | GEORGIA BRITO

It’s no secret that Vetements was going through rough times when it comes to nice pieces…

Or it could just be my opinion.

But in those last few years, the brand was a bit lost, as you might say, with the creative direction changes. Some seasons were nothing more than reprints of older pieces, and some were pieces that made no sense to what the brand was before.

But have they come back today? And by today, I mean literally June 27th, 2023, with the release of the new SS24 collection. For those who follow the brand’s trajectory, this new collection came with great news: the old styles are back but renewed.

Wait… Is that a Margiela reference?

The designs, as always, seem to be part of a universe that the two brands coincide (Vetements and Balenciaga). Just like it happened before with Demna working for Balenciaga, he seemed to make the same pieces with a more aggressively ironic twist on Vetements as he did in Balenciaga but changed some things to make it more “acceptable” for the big house.

And some people may not be fans of his brother, who came to sit in the big creative direction seat, but today I have to say: congratulations to him.

(As if my opinion on this multi-million brand would matter even for a second.)

He came the other way around, making some recognizable pieces from the last collections of his brother’s work and made them even more excessive, bigger, wider, weirder…

I would never say better because I don’t think he could ever be called better than his brother. I actually think they are very incomparable, with Demna being one of the most important and influential designers of this decade, and Guram… he’s learning. But he did it this time. I hope he can give the brand a nicer future than I was thinking it would have.

And for those who don’t follow the releases from the two brands: no, Demna was not copying himself, and I don’t think they are copying him now either.

The last few seasons of the Vetements brand were something like cheaper fabrics with reprinted graphics… no shame in that, but the prices did not go down at any moment. At least now we can see something worth paying big prices for, like a 16x bigger than the already big hoodie. This must have been very hard to convince people to manufacture…

Let’s start the XXXXXXXXXXL competition

Sorry, but for me, it seemed very “nepotistic” of him to be named creative director. But now, I have started to have hope for some good seasons to come.

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